Georgia was a vibrant and lovely destination for a short getaway in Europe. A country whose research is funny as you almost need to specify that you mean Georgia the country, and not Georgia… the State of USA 😉 (true story) … So Georgia, the country, promised pretty landscapes, nice people and world-class food!
When I looked at the European map, to be frank, it ended in Finland / Rusia, the Baltics and everything below. Sometimes these countries pretty much in between Europe and Asia are overlooked, except their rival and big brother Turkey, famous for being the exact merge between these 2 continents.
That being said, a dear friend of mine invited me to a Georgian restaurant really early in my Helsinki times. I tried the glorious kachapuri for the first time and I fell in love with it. Many years later, I celebrated my birthday with another dear friend by going to a different Georgian restaurant.. After something I called a “kachapuri comma”, that concrete 41th birthday of mine, I looked at the map and realized it was not that far. I checked flights and it looked doable via Riga.
So yes, this may be the only case where, literally.. the love for certain food made me choose a destination. For the record, I am not really a foodie, so this is exceptional in my universe.
Needless to say, Georgia is way more than its food. I learned nature is amazing there, and people are welcoming. With a recent soviet past which is still visible, at the same time it´s a society that really identifies with the European values, especially younger generations. This made this country the perfect plan for my Easter trip when I usually cannot spend that many days abroad, but enough to travel internationally.
Khachapuri and khinkali
Spoiler… as a solo traveler.. trying Georgian food is difficult! You did not see this coming, huh? The answer is simple, traditional Georgian food is meant to be shared. People ask for different dishes and you take a bite of different things. So if you order a full kachapuri, that is enough to keep you fed for the entire day!
That did not stop me obviously, but that meant I could order one thing at the time. Bakeries were the closest possibility to taste the delicious bread and cheese in more rational sizes, but somebody wanted the original full-blown version of these dishes
Khachapuri is a traditional dish consisting of cheese-filled bread. For any cheese lovers, this is exquisite and delicious! There are different styles, one the most popular is the boat-shaped Adjarian khachapuri, which is filled with cheese and topped with an egg.
It is such a national food treasure that you can even find in chains like Dunkin´Donuts (Georgian version) as rolled khachapuri. I had my doubts but ohh my.. equally tasty! ! The local bread and sulguni cheese do all the magic.
Khinkali (ხინკალი) is a type of Georgian dumpling. It’s a large, soup-filled dumpling, typically made with meat and spices (I even tried a cheese version!) The defining characteristic is the pleated top, which is meant to be held while eating the dumpling, with the broth and filling consumed first
Finally on the portions.. Not complaining as such, just stating a fact 🙂 If anyone planning to go, be sure to have company or be social enough to find a dinner-buddy during your stay. Anything is possible! I just did not feel like doing the extra social effort this time, not for a short trip anyway. Quality relaxing-time with myself was a great deal for me.
Georgian dancing
One event I was particularly looking forward was the folkloric dancing. Until this date, I still hit myself to the wall but not bookmarking the National Georgian dancing company when they visited Helsinki.. but maybe in another time in another European country I can follow them.
Being in Tbilisi, there are restaurants offering live music and dancing in exchange for overpriced dishes.. but hey.. I really wanted to see some dancing while in Georgia, so I went for it. I chose Ethno tsiskvili on my first night, with the good company of a bottle of Georgian wine 😉 -don´t worry, I took the bottle with me for the rest of the trip-
Georgian dancing is characterized by intricate footwork, acrobatics, and a blend of solo, pair, and group performances. Each dance represents a unique story about the culture and Georgian life. Men’s dances often showcase agility and strength, while women’s dances show more grace, creating a harmonious blend of power and elegance.
In the summer time there are more options for full blown performances in theaters, but this time of the year (April), at least I was able to see something at restaurants. Half of the show is “only” with live music, and then the dancers perform also with live music. This restaurant´s show lasts about 2 hours from 8 to 10 pm.
Wine culture
Georgia is considered the birthplace of wine, with evidence of winemaking dating back at least 8,000 years, with unique and ancient winemaking traditions including the use of the qvevri method. Qvevri are large, egg-shaped clay vessels that are used for fermentation and aging, a practice deeply rooted in Georgian culture and recognized by UNESCO.
This method, along with the use of indigenous grape varieties and the country’s climate, contributes to the distinct flavor profiles of Georgian wine.
. This long history has shaped the unique winemaking practices and cultural significance of wine in Georgia. It´s not only that their wines are excellent and varied, but people indeed drink a lot of wine! – and who would blame them when produced in house-
It was quite funny to see posters and wine related phrases EVERYWHERE in the city center -touristy places, yes… but still!-
Wine tours
I´m sorry to disappoint anybody but I didn´t do any official Wine tour, those that take you full day traveling from winery to winery and people come back very happy from the tours!
These are extremely popular and super easy to find, but frankly it´s not my biggest obsession in life -compared to chocolate for example-.. so I was happy to take any free wine tasting via walking tours, ordering at restaurants in my dinners (give me that at least, I usually stick to water or soda but here I chose to order wine when eating). It was that and walking in to any store saying “free wine-tasting”. The trick is to be confident and not guilty enough to gracefully decline all offers to buy their products afterwards. #follow me for more tips!
Via this “free tasting” route, I tried couple of wines from Georgian style to European style but produced in Georgia.
Wine ice-cream
One appreciation post for my first-ever wine ice cream! Once combined with ice cream, you can definitely feel the wine flavor but already less strong.. which made it perfect for me!
Tbilisi city
Tbilisi is the capital of Georgia and its foundation dates back to the 5th century AD. Its location at a crossroads between Asia and Europe has made it a target for conquerors, leading to a diverse architectural and cultural heritage. Tbilisi was controlled by various empires including the Persians, Arabs, Mongols, and Turks. In the 19th century, Tbilisi came under Russian rule and later Soviet Union, It regained its status as the capital of independent Georgia in 1991
Strolling around Tbilisi city center was safe, easy and fun! To keep my trip simple, I spent all my nights in the capital Tbilisi, and took some day tours. This blog is focused only on the city center part and some of its highlights.
Bridge of Peace
The Bridge of Peace, an elegant construction of steel frame and glass panels, was brought to Georgia from Italy in 200 unassembled components. It was officially opened on 2010. Ever since, it has become a city landscape that connects the old city with the modern city.
The bridge is equally beautiful during the day and the night. That wavy structure makes it incredible from different angles looking at the bridge but also from the bridge.
Fun fact is, during the night it uses pulsating lights on its glass railings to display a Morse code message. This message renders the periodic table of elements, symbolizing the “anthem of life and peace among people and nations”
Music Theatre and Exhibition Hall
This strange looking structure was intended to be a Theater but it is not in use. It can be seen from many of the higher locations in the city. It is said many locals never liked it because it was contrasting too much with the historical part of the city, others complained about how expensive it was considering the economic crisis. You can read and hear different versions, even than lowering the price has not helped having it bought or rented.
The /truth is, even if “useless” inside, from architectural perspective it is very photogenic or at least I really loved it for photography in contrast with the park.
Sulfur baths
Tbilisi is famous for its sulfur baths. Tbilisi means “warm” in Georgian, and reflects the presence of natural hot springs that inspired its foundation. The waters are naturally warm, averaging temperatures of 38-40 Celsius. The thermal springs that feed the baths are said to ave health benefits too.
Anything from traditional, shared and truly local options where you share your naked self with strangers, to more high end baths you can book privately. I chose something in between, for local terms expensive but it was my own room including a big hot pool and a cold one.
Gulo’s Thermal Spa
The rooms at Gulo’s are the most authentic of any of the recently refurbished sulfur baths
In addition I got a local massage called kisi (kisa) exfoliation/pilling scrub as it is an essential part of the experience. Much like a Turkish hammam treatment, it involves a vigorous scrub-down with a textured mitt to get rid of dead skin, followed by a wash down with a foamy pillowcase
A kisi typically takes 10-15 minutes and costs 10 or 20 GEL. The person who performs the kisi is called a Mekise
Chreli-Abano (Orbeliani Baths)
Fun fact, when you see this building first time it´s easy to think it´s a mosque until you realize it´s also a luxury bath house!
Chreli-Abano has a long history: This is where Alexandre Dumas and Alexander Pushkin bathed when they visited Tbilisi. However, it was completely refurbished a couple of years ago. Although very beautiful, most of the rooms don’t have their traditional domed roofs and aren’t ‘authentic’ Tbilisi-style like the ones at Gulo’s.
Based on the research of “authentic” baths, I chose Gulo´s.. But, as an admirer of the mosque-style decorations, this was eye-candy and subject of many photos!
Holy Trinity Cathedral
It is the largest functional church in Georgia and the third-largest Eastern Orthodox cathedral globally. Almost 90 meters high!
Blending traditional Georgian and Byzantine architectural styles, it can be seen from many places of the city. Situated on Ellia Hill in the Avlabari district on the left bank of the Mtkvari River. Construction began in 1995 and was completed in 2004
Remember my trip was during Easter, so I got to see it an Orthodox ceremony. The church was fully crowded so I decided to leave locals in peace 😉 Since literally no one else would fit
National Botanical Garden of Georgia
Another easy and rewarding visit while in Tbilisi is the Botanical Garden. I was there right on time for the Lilac blossom, absolutely beautiful! The garden dates back to royal times and there is evidence at least since 17th centyre, making it one of the oldest botanic gardens in the former Soviet Union.
Bonus 1: Tabada
Tabada is an important role in Georgian community. Usually older and wise person everyone needs to listen to, he´s in charge of the speeches in festivities and serving wine. It was mentioned to me by 3 guides, there is a statuein the city center to represent the Tabada, so I believe it´s important for them!
Speaking of wine.. local guide told me in big parties they usually calculate 3 liters of wine per person! This means parties can also take more than a day, but still!! This is a lot.
Bonus 2: What was this?
Unfortunately I left the city not knowing this… what on earth is this supposed to mean??
All in all, a beautiful city to visit! Fully recommended for a nice city get away, with great opportunities within the city and also day tours to the mountains, wine tours and other natural places.
Cheers! Nat
